![]() Image was cropped slightly before being resized for web viewing.Ī 100% crop of 1320x880 pixels (displayed inline here at 660x440) from the middle from the above shot. ![]() This one was taken after the conductor's stand was moved for the posed shot at the end of a concert, but exposure was manually set earlier for the tripod mounted camera¹ using the conductor's score for the brightest highlights.Ĭanon EOS 5D Mark II, EF 50mm f/1.4, ISO 1600, f/4, 1/160 second. Everything else you can bring back up when processing the raw. Saving raw give you another stop or so of headroom above what the "blinkies" are telling you is overexposed. Manually adjust exposure until the white sheet music on the conductor's stand is just blowing out, as indicated by the "blinkies" on your camera's LCD screen when reviewing the image. Always save raw data when dealing with such differences in brightness between the brightest whites and the dark black. It's actually pretty easy to shoot in such a situation. Thanks! I've learned a whole lot, although I'm starting to realize the solution might just to get better photographers The following does respond to a comment by the OP to another answer. While this doesn't really answer the question directly, it is far too long for a comment. Of course the best way is to shoot the image with the proper exposure to begin with. Others have covered rather well your very limited post processing options. You can always bring the shadows up in post (at the expense of noise), but you cannot put detail back if that detail is blown. This may not eliminate what you're calling "glare".įor another take on this, Tetsujin has the photoshop skillz equivalent of a mouse taming a cat and produced the following using "a fairly noisy HDR-style recovery in Ps using curves & dehaze/clarity in PhotoRAW." (Thank you for providing this!)įor your own photographic advice: if you are ever shooting en environment like this where the subject is very well lit and the rest of the photo isn't, expose for the highlight so that nothing is blown. Keep in mind that those blown pixels will only ever be white or some value of grey. ![]() You'll want to tone down the white to a grey and then bump the contrast by tweaking the curve into an "s" shape. The tool that you'll want to use is called "Curves" in most programs. It's also an uncorrected monitor, but hopefully the point is clear: The below was a quick curves adjustment using Pixlr because I don't have Photoshop on this computer. You can tone down the white by going to a grey and then tweak the contrast a bit so that the image doesn't look so flat. Keeping that in mind, the only thing that you can do is attempt to lessen the impact. For example, I've cranked the levels to darken everything, yet here those pixels are.in all their blown glory: There is nothing you can do to alter these pixels to gain lost detail. When an image contains pure white (#fff or values RGB 255/255/255) - we refer to this as "blown" or "blown out".
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